555-555-5555
mymail@mailservice.com
Air Injection Pump
Your car’s secondary air injection pump (also known as REREV) plays a crucial role in reducing harmful emissions by injecting fresh air into the exhaust system. Many modern vehicles, especially those with stricter emissions standards, come with this system. Some of those automobile manufacturers are: Toyota, Lexus, Audi, Volkswagen, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, and Subaru. The secondary air injection pump is part of a vehicle’s emissions control system. Its job is to:
- Pump fresh air into the exhaust stream (usually during cold starts).
- Help burn off unburned fuel in the exhaust.
- Reduce emissions by converting harmful pollutants like carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons into less harmful substances.
But here’s the kicker: when it fails, your engine runs rough, your fuel efficiency drops, and you could be staring down expensive repairs. And the worst part? You might not even realize it’s failing until it’s too late.
Is Your Car’s Air Pump Secretly Failing? Here’s What You Need to Know Before It Costs You Big!
Most drivers—and even some mechanics—never think twice about the secondary air injection pump. It’s not flashy like your engine, nor is it something you maintain like your brakes. But when it fails, the consequences can hit hard: from a glowing check engine light to failing emissions tests and costly repairs. Our car’s secondary air injection pump plays a crucial role in reducing harmful emissions by injecting fresh air into the exhaust system. But here’s the kicker: when it fails, your engine runs rough, your fuel efficiency drops, and you could be staring down expensive repairs. And the worst part? You might not even realize it’s failing until it’s too late.
OEM Air Injection Pump
Learn More About OEM Air Injection Pump
Let’s be real: most car owners don’t think about emissions until they fail a test. But ignoring a failing air pump doesn’t just increase pollution—it can also damage other components in your emissions system, leading to a repair bill that’s way higher than a pump replacement. From reliable brands like Toyota and Subaru to luxury giants like BMW, Audi, and Mercedes-Benz, many modern cars rely on this system to meet emissions standards. And yes, even your trusted daily driver could be at risk. Here’s the harsh truth: replacing an air pump can cost between $300 and $700, depending on your car. And if you let it go too long? That number can climb even higher.
So, What Should You Do Next?
- Check for Early Signs: Don’t ignore that check engine light.
- Listen for Unusual Noises: Your car will tell you when something’s wrong.
- Get a Quick Diagnostic: A simple scan could save you hundreds.
- Replace Before It’s Too Late: Acting early means lower costs and fewer headaches.
Hidden Signs That Your Air Pump Might Be Dying
- That Check Engine Light Isn’t Just a Glitch – Fault codes like P0410 often point directly to your air injection system.
- Rough Starts in the Morning? – A failing pump can make your engine struggle during cold starts.
- Weird Noises Under the Hood? – Whining or clicking noises might be your air pump’s cry for help.
- Failed Emissions Test? – This tiny component might be the reason you didn’t pass.
- Fuel Costs Suddenly Rising? – An inefficient system burns more fuel, and your wallet feels the burn.
Common Issues with Air Injection Pump
The secondary air injection pump might not be the most talked-about part under your hood, but when it fails, it can cause a chain reaction of problems. Ignoring the early signs? That’s a fast track to unexpected repairs and unwanted costs. Let’s break down the most common issues you need to watch out for:
Moisture Build-Up: The Silent Killer
- What happens? Moisture from the exhaust system can sneak into the pump, causing internal rust and corrosion.
- The result: A pump that’s struggling to work—or worse, completely dead.
- How to spot it: If you hear a grinding noise or notice rough engine starts, moisture damage could be the culprit.
Stuck or Failing Check Valves
- What happens? The one-way check valve is supposed to let air into the exhaust system and keep exhaust gases out. But when it fails, exhaust gases flow back into the pump.
- The result: Exhaust gases damage the pump’s internal components, leading to failure.
- How to spot it: Your check engine light might come on, or you’ll notice your engine struggling during startup.
Electrical Failures
- What happens? The air pump relies on your car’s electrical system. Bad wiring, corroded connectors, or blown fuses can cause it to stop working.
- The result: Your pump won’t run, and your emissions system takes the hit.
- How to spot it: No unusual noises, but a diagnostic scan will reveal codes like P0410, P0411, or P0412 related to the secondary air system.
Mechanical Wear and Tear
- What happens? Over time, like any mechanical component, the pump’s internal parts wear out.
- The result: It becomes less effective, runs noisily, or fails entirely.
- How to spot it: Whining, clicking, or grinding noises from under the hood—especially during cold starts.
Hose or Vacuum Line Leaks
- What happens? The system uses hoses and vacuum lines to direct airflow. Cracks or leaks mean the system can’t maintain proper airflow.
- The result: Reduced efficiency, higher emissions, and possible engine performance issues.
- How to spot it: A drop in fuel efficiency, rough idling, and that dreaded check engine light.
Faulty Air Pump Relay
- What happens? The relay controls power to the pump. A failing relay can prevent the pump from turning on at all.
- The result: No air injection, leading to emissions system malfunction.
- How to spot it: No pump noise during startup, and an error code from a diagnostic scan.
FAQs about OEM Automotive Air Injection Pumps
What does the secondary air injection pump actually do?
The secondary air injection pump helps reduce harmful emissions by injecting fresh air into the exhaust system during cold starts. This extra oxygen helps burn off unburned fuel, making your vehicle more eco-friendly and keeping it compliant with emissions standards.
What vehicles have an air injection pump?
1. Toyota/Lexus
Toyota has used secondary air injection pumps in many of its vehicles, especially after stricter emissions standards came into effect in the mid-2000s.
- Toyota Tundra: 2007-present
- Toyota Sequoia: 2008-present
- Toyota 4Runner: 2010-present
- Toyota Tacoma: 2012-present
- Toyota Land Cruiser: 2007-present
- Lexus GX460: 2010-present
- Lexus LX570: 2008-present
Toyota introduced the secondary air injection system starting in 2007 for its larger trucks and SUVs, expanding to other models over time.
2. BMW
BMW incorporated secondary air injection pumps in many of its models as early as the mid-1990s to meet tightening emissions regulations, especially in the U.S.
- BMW 3 Series (E36, E46): 1996-2006
- BMW 5 Series (E39, E60): 1996-2010
- BMW 7 Series (E38, E65): 1996-2008
- BMW X5 (E53, E70): 2000-2013
- BMW Z3/Z4: 1997-2008
BMW’s secondary air injection systems started appearing around 1996, especially in U.S.-spec models to comply with California’s stringent emissions standards.
3. Audi/Volkswagen
Audi and VW began implementing secondary air injection pumps in the late 1990s, especially in their turbocharged and high-performance models.
- Audi A4/A6/A8: 1998-present
- Audi TT: 2000-present
- Audi Q5/Q7: 2007-present
- Volkswagen Passat: 1998-present
- Volkswagen Jetta: 1999-present
- Volkswagen Golf/GTI: 1999-present
- Volkswagen Touareg: 2004-present
Audi and VW have been using secondary air injection systems since the late '90s, particularly in models equipped with turbocharged engines and V6/V8 configurations.
4. Mercedes-Benz
Mercedes-Benz started using secondary air injection pumps as early as the mid-1990s across many of its luxury sedans, coupes, and SUVs.
- Mercedes-Benz C-Class (W202, W203, W204): 1995-2014
- Mercedes-Benz E-Class (W210, W211, W212): 1996-2016
- Mercedes-Benz S-Class (W140, W220, W221): 1994-2013
- Mercedes-Benz ML-Class (W163, W164): 1997-2011
- Mercedes-Benz SL-Class (R129, R230): 1996-2011
Mercedes-Benz integrated secondary air injection systems in many of its models starting in the mid-1990s, focusing on both performance and emission standards.
5. Subaru
Subaru adopted secondary air injection pumps more recently, primarily in its models with higher emissions output like the WRX/STI and larger engines.
Subaru WRX/STI: 2007-present
Subaru Outback: 2008-present
Subaru Forester: 2008-present
Subaru Legacy: 2008-present
Subaru Tribeca: 2008-2014
Subaru introduced secondary air injection systems in 2007, particularly in turbocharged models and larger engine configurations to meet emissions regulations.
6. General Motors (Chevrolet/GMC)
GM has implemented secondary air injection systems in many of its trucks, SUVs, and performance cars since the early 2000s.
- Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra: 2001-present
- Chevrolet Tahoe/Suburban: 2001-present
- GMC Yukon/Yukon XL: 2001-present
- Chevrolet Corvette (C5, C6): 1997-2013
- Chevrolet Camaro: 2010-present
GM started using secondary air injection pumps in the early 2000s for its larger vehicles and performance models, ensuring compliance with emissions standards.
7. Porsche
Porsche integrated secondary air injection pumps to maintain its performance while meeting global emissions regulations, especially in the U.S.
- Porsche 911 (996, 997): 1998-2013
- Porsche Boxster/Cayman (986, 987): 1997-2012
- Porsche Cayenne: 2003-present
Porsche started using secondary air injection pumps in the late 1990s, particularly in the 911 models, to balance performance and emissions compliance.
8. Honda/Acura
Honda and its luxury brand Acura incorporated secondary air injection systems primarily in their V6 models starting in the mid-2000s.
- Honda Pilot: 2005-present
- Honda Ridgeline: 2006-present
- Acura MDX: 2005-present
- Acura RLX: 2005-2020
- Acura TLX: 2015-present
Honda/Acura began using secondary air injection systems around 2005, mainly in their larger V6 engines for improved emissions control.
How do I know if my air injection pump is failing?
Watch for these signs:
- Check Engine Light with codes like P0410, P0411, or P0412.
- Rough engine starts, especially when cold.
- Unusual noises (whining, clicking, or grinding) from the engine bay.
- Failed emissions tests or increased exhaust smoke.
- Decreased fuel efficiency.
Can I drive with a bad secondary air injection pump?
Technically, yes—but you really shouldn’t. While your car might still run, a failing air pump:
- Increases harmful emissions.
- Reduces fuel efficiency.
- Can damage other components, like the catalytic converter. Ignoring it could turn a relatively affordable fix into a costly repair job.
How much does it cost to replace a secondary air injection pump?
Depending on your vehicle’s make and model, replacement costs range from $300 to $700, including parts and labor. Luxury brands like BMW, Mercedes, and Audi often land on the higher end, while Toyota and Honda models tend to be more affordable.
Why does the secondary air injection pump fail so often?
Common reasons include:
- Moisture build-up, leading to rust and corrosion.
- Stuck check valves allowing exhaust gases into the pump.
- Electrical issues (wiring, fuses, or relay failures).
- Normal wear and tear over time. Proper maintenance and timely repairs can extend the life of your pump.
Can I replace the secondary air injection pump myself?
If you’re handy with cars, yes—but it’s not always straightforward. You’ll need to:
- Diagnose the issue with an OBD2 scanner.
- Access the pump, which is often tucked into tight spaces.
- Replace any damaged hoses, valves, or relays as well. For complex setups or high-end vehicles, professional help is recommended.
What happens if I donβt replace a faulty air pump?
Ignoring a bad air pump can lead to:
- Failed emissions tests and possible fines.
- Reduced engine performance and higher fuel costs.
- Damage to other emissions components, like the catalytic converter.
- Persistent check engine lights and poor drivability. Fixing it early saves you from bigger headaches down the road.
Which vehicles are most likely to have air injection pump issues?
While any car with a secondary air system can experience problems, the most commonly affected brands include:
- Toyota/Lexus
- BMW
- Audi/Volkswagen
- Mercedes-Benz
- Subaru Regular maintenance is key to avoiding issues, regardless of the brand.
How can I prevent air injection pump failure?
Here are some pro tips:
- Check for leaks or cracks in hoses regularly.
- Listen for unusual noises during cold starts.
- Replace check valves if they show signs of wear.
- Run regular diagnostics to catch early warning signs.
- Use quality replacement parts to ensure durability.
Where can I buy a reliable replacement air injection pump?
Right here! With AutoPartEx, finding the right OEM air injection pump for your vehicle is simple. We connect you with trusted OEM vendors from all over America, offering a wide selection of high-quality parts for all major car brands. Search our marketplace now and find the perfect part to keep your car running clean and efficient!
π§ Step-by-Step Guide: How to Replace an Air Injection Pump
If your secondary air injection pump has failed, don’t worry—you can replace it with the right tools and some mechanical know-how. Replacing a secondary air injection pump isn’t overly complex, but it requires careful handling of electrical connectors, air hoses, and mounting bolts. With this guide, you can confidently swap out a failing pump and restore your car’s emissions system. Follow these steps to get your emissions system back in shape.
π‘ Need a replacement air injection pump? AutoPartEx connects you with trusted OEM vendors across America—find the right part for your car today!
π§ Tools & Materials Needed:
ο»Ώ
- Replacement secondary air injection pump (OEM recommended)
- Socket wrench set (typically 8mm–14mm for most vehicles)
- Torque wrench (for proper tightening)
- Screwdrivers (flathead & Phillips)
- Pliers
- OBD2 scanner (to reset codes after installation)
- Safety gloves & goggles
Step 1: Disconnect the Battery β‘
Before working on any electrical component, disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery to avoid short circuits or accidental startups.\
π Pro Tip: This also helps reset any stored error codes in your vehicle’s ECU.
Step 2: Locate the Secondary Air Injection Pump π
- Typically found near the front of the engine or underneath the vehicle (varies by model).
- Look for a small, round pump with hoses and electrical connectors attached.
- In some vehicles (like BMWs and Audis), it may be behind the front bumper or under plastic engine covers.
π Check your vehicle’s service manual or an online guide for the exact location.
Step 3: Remove Plastic Covers & Components (If Needed) π οΈ
- Some vehicles require removing engine covers, skid plates, or intake components to access the pump.
- Use a socket wrench or screwdriver to take off these parts carefully.
- Keep track of bolts and clips to make reassembly easier.
Step 4: Disconnect Electrical Connectors π
- Find the wiring harness connected to the pump.
- Press the locking tab and carefully unplug the connector.
- Inspect the wiring for corrosion or damage—if faulty, it may need replacement.
π If the connector is stuck, use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry it off.
Step 5: Remove Air Hoses & Check Valves π¬οΈ
- Loosen hose clamps and detach air hoses connected to the pump.
- Inspect hoses and check valves for cracks, leaks, or carbon buildup—these might also need replacement.
- If your vehicle has a one-way check valve, ensure it’s working properly.
π If hoses are stuck, twist them gently while pulling to avoid tearing.
Step 6: Unbolt & Remove the Old Pump π©
- Locate the mounting bolts securing the pump (usually 2-4 bolts).
- Use a socket wrench to remove them carefully.
- Take out the old pump and inspect the mounting surface for dirt or debris.
π Some pumps have rubber grommets or bushings—transfer them to the new pump if needed.
Step 7: Install the New Secondary Air Injection Pump β
- Position the new pump in place.
- Hand-tighten the mounting bolts first, then use a torque wrench to tighten them to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- Reconnect the air hoses and electrical connectors securely.
- Ensure all hose clamps and check valves are properly reinstalled.
π Over-tightening bolts can crack the housing—always follow torque specs.
Step 8: Reassemble & Reconnect the Battery π
- Reinstall any removed engine covers, intake parts, or skid plates.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Double-check all connections before starting the vehicle.
Step 9: Clear Error Codes & Test the System π
- Use an OBD2 scanner to reset the check engine light and clear any P0410, P0411, or P0412 codes.
- Start the engine and listen for proper operation (no strange noises).
- Let the car idle and check for any warning lights or performance issues.
- If the check engine light returns, double-check the connections and ensure the system is airtight.
π If the issue persists, a faulty check valve, relay, or wiring problem might be to blame.
